Tuesday, July 21, 2026

 

Film Fun: Enoch Boles ~ American Pin-Up 1920s~1930s


For the love of American pin-ups, FILM FUN and Enoch Bolles (1883-1976), I'm posting a group of covers from the late 1920s to the mid 1930s. They speak for themselves and have a lot to say. For much more about this great American artist, refer to his bio as well as an excellent blogspot site devoted solely to Bolles' amazing artwork. 
















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Yva Richard Paris 1920s/30s: Genesis of Fetish Fashion


The Yva Richard company in Paris is most well known for their creation of excellent and obsessive "fetish" photographs from the early 1920s to the early 1930s. Much has been written and posted on the web about the married couple working behind and in front of the camera to create these marvelous photographs. Unfortunately most of what is posted is inaccurate, misrepresented and in one case, almost completely wrong. 

Why they did not read Alexandre Dupouy's excellent book YVA RICHARD L'Age d'Or du Fetichisme (Editions Astarte: Paris, 1994) above, is in some ways typical of the web mentality. Information is "reposted" without consideration of historical fact or accuracy. However, I digress. My mission is not to criticize what I see around me in the virtual world, but to share imagery from my archives for your pleasure.

Alexandre Dupouy's book came to life after his frustrating attempts to get the Yva Richard book published in time for the 1994 Mois de la Photo in Paris. Realizing that the book was not going to be published in time for the exhibition planned at his gallery, he took matters into his own hands and by default, started Editions Astarte. Alexandre and his wife, Jocelyne, are the editors and publishers of Editions Astarte, to date with about 35 books in-print, including my 2009 book, BEAUTES TINTEES (Tinted Beauties) which I will dedicate a separate post to in the near future.


Nativa circa 1927 
Archetypal fetish mistress: long leather gloves, black lace, leather corset, stockings and high heels 
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The groundwork for the Yva Richard photo studio began in the early 1920s. At the time the company was creating lingerie for the boudoir as well as what they referred to as "lingerie travesti" (costume lingerie). Soon, looking to achieve the quality of photographic imagery they wanted for catalogs and ads, they created and operated their own photographic studio. Mr. Richard moved behind the camera and his voluptuous, seemingly "naturally" exhibitionistic wife, Nativa, became the model. 

By the late 1920s the lingerie company had collapsed and in it is place Yva (Nat-iva = Yva) Richard became solely a photo studio creating and selling exceptional, high quality photographs of Nativa in seductive lingerie. They progressed quickly, from lingerie "costumes" to lingerie transformed into fetishized attire. The outfits consisted of thigh high leather boots, very long leather gloves, lace bras and panties; plus satin corsets, garter belts, silk stockings and patent leather high heels. In the 1940s, John Willie's Bizarre magazine, referred to these combinations as "fantasy fashion". Nudity was rarely seen in their photographs, except in small, teasing peeks (see the last two photographs).

The photographs were created in two sizes for distinct purposes. The first were 5" x 7" and used as catalog photographs (fashion photographs) to sell lingerie, clothing and accessories. Some of the catalogs published the original photographs in groups of four as illustrations inside a printed paper wrapper. Later, when Yva Richard was selling only photographs they concentrated on the postcard format, 3.5" x 5.5", photographic images (fetish photographs). With hindsight, it is plain to see that Monsieur Richard was obsessed with legs, stockings, high heel shoes and rear views of Nativa.

The Yva Richard name remained listed as a business in the Paris directories until 1943, however for this amazing couple, the "golden age of fetishism" ended in 1935, coinciding with increasing censorship and the advancement of the political change. At that point their efforts as a photographic studio ceased to exit. 
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The first three images are the large 5" x 7"  format and published in catalogs as original photographs. These images have the distinctive "YR Paris" logo rubber-stamped on the back. Note that in these three photographs the figure is complete, showing off the clothing, as you would expect in conventional "fashion" photographs. The model in all the photographs illustrated in this post is Nativa.

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A quintessentially '20s French flapper ready for what ever the 
night has in store. "Feu, s.v.p.!"


Flashing her legs and lingerie while catching a bit of heat atop
a warming radiator. 


Nativa, not quite ready for the winter weather in her fur coat, 
gloves and cloche hat.
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This second group are postcard format, 3.5" x 5.5", photographs. Here the emphasis moves from selling fashion to selling fetish, the photographs concentrating on the lingerie, legs, shoes and derriere of Nativa. Can you imagine Nativa's figure and form being accepted as "fashionable" in today's world? Only as a "plus-size" model. Note the "Y.R." logo + file number dropped out in the lower corner in all but one of the images.


Excellent view of Nativa's round, open and inviting face.
Large, can-can style petticoats; striped, opera length, leather gloves.


Elaborate lace ~ two piece ensemble. 


From a series of Nativa's legs and high button boots.


Attention! 


Boots and legs from the back.


Lace trimmed satin panties on fur draped posing table!


For some, the piece de resistance, showing a part of
each of the "essentials".


"Mary Pickford" wig and frou-frou chemise just a bit 
hung up on the way down.



Nativa giving a visual cue in her extremely tight corset,
wide garters and silk stockings.

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Yva Richard photographs are in our eBay store listed For Sale!
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NU ~ NUS ~ NUES ~ NUDES

Prior to starting my collection of photography books (circa 1973 in New York) the only exposure I had to the French word "nus" was in an ad at the back of an early 1960s American men's magazine: "Exotic French books (in the ad, an illustration of NUS covers, including the Andre de Deines color cover below) imported directly from Paris". The ad was very appealing, but who knew what you would get after responding to a girlie magazine ad. 

A few years into collecting I found two or three different issues of NUS and was pleasantly surprised to see that they were filled with exceptional photographs, beautifully printed with full-page gravures of female nudes. 

Fast forwarding about five years, as my collection was growing, I starting attending auctions for photography books. That is where I saw NUS, edited by Daniel Masclet, for the first time. I had to have it for the growing portion of my collection concerning books on the nude, but it was more than I could afford and I dropped out of the bidding. Fast forward again to my early days in Paris, circa 1985. 

During one trip that year, at a bouquinistes stall on the left bank, there was NUS, seemingly waiting for me. It was wrapped in heavy plastic, taped shut like a parcel ready to be mailed, 40F (forty francs - at the time $4.00!) written in bold black marker on the front. I should say "they were wrapped..." as there were four or five copies of this, up until that moment, rare book, presented as a 50 plus years old "remainder" on the quai in Paris. 

I bought the three copies that looked like they had just arrived fresh from the publisher (left behind the copies that were a bit damaged) and got my 10% percent discount to boot. Over the years I bought as many copies as I could find in and around the quai, the price inching up to 100F. Then, like all desirable remaindered books, they disappeared. 

Years later they began reappearing in the windows of better book shops for 250F and up. When the euro was introduced in 2002 and prices for all consumer goods took a big jump, the price was 250/300 Euros. Today you can find copies on-line starting at $1,200.00 and up to $2,500.00. Realistic price is $750.00. I'd like a few more of those copies wrapped in plastic...please!

Today's post: an homage to le NU ~ NUS ~ NUES ~~ NUDE ~ NUDES ~ NAKED


 

The first modern French book of the nude to be published in Paris was Daniel Masclet's NUS with stunningly simple typography on the cover plus 
burgundy colored tie-binding. NUS. La Beaute de la Femme. Album du Premier Salon International du Nus Photographique. Published by Chez Braun, edited by Daniel Masclet. Paris, 1933. 
Includes photographs by Laure Albin Guillot, Pierre Boucher, Frantisek Drtikol, Andréas Feinenger, Emil-Otto Hoppe, Moholy-Nagy, George Platt Lynes, Man Ray, Marcel Meys and others.


Formes Nues. Albert Mentzel, Albert Roux (Editors): Paris: Editions d'Art Graphique et Photographique, 1935. Text in English, French, and German. Folio size with spiral binding.  Cover photograph by Man Ray. 
Ninety-six full-page photographs plus twenty-two pages of text in French, German and English. Beautifully printed in gravure including photographs by 
Laure Albin-Guillot, Pierre Boucher, Brassai, Louis Caillaud, Frantisek Drtikol, 
Nora Dumas, Andreas Feininger, Raoul Hausmann, John Havinden, Florence Henri, Andre Kertesz, Edmund Kesting, Ergy Landau, Jacques Lemare, Herbert List, Kefer-Dora Maar, Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, George Platt Lynes, Therese Le Prat, Man Ray, Franz Roh, Maurice Tabard, Maurice P. Verneuil and others.


Etudes de Nus. Editions du Chene. Paris, 1948. Beautifully printed in gravure, folio size publication with 24 photographs on plates, loose in the wrapper, ready to be framed. Includes female nudes by Brassai, Nora Dumas, Feher, Pierre Jahan, Ergy Landau, Liu-Shu-Chang, Philippe Pottier, Jeanne Robert, Seeberger and Sougez. 




Le Nu en Photographie. Marcel Natkin. Paris, 1949. Photographs by Man Ray, Pierre Jahan, Pierre Boucher, Brassai and Emmanuel Sougez.



 NUS Academics Dans La Nature. En Relief par les Anaglyphes.
Paris, circa 1935. Nudes outdoors photographed in 3-D

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The following seven cover photographs are from the NUS series published in Paris starting in 1949. The series was numerically consistent until volume 4 or 5.  At that point the serial information was dropped and then restarted a few years later making it impossible to figure out the correct publishing sequence. Nonetheless, the quality of each volume was always consistently high, impeccably printed in full-page gravure and filled with images by some of the best photographers working in the genre. The series ended circa 1960. 



 NUS. Photos Originales d'Andre de Deines. Paris: Societe Parisienne d'Editions Artistiques, circa 1949. De Deines was noted for posing his models outdoors and was one of the first to photograph Marilyn Monroe.



 NUS Exotiques. Photos by Paul Facchetti. Paris: Societe Parisienne d'Editions 
Artistiques, circa 1949. Unique in the series featuring black models.



 NUS. Photographies Originales d'Andre de Deines. Paris: Societe 
Parisienne d'Editions Artistiques, circa 1949. 



 NUS par Andre Steiner. Paris: published not indicated, 1953.
All photographs by Andre Steiner. 



Nus Academiques. Paris: Societe Parisienne d'Editions 
Artistiques, circa 1950. Collection of female nudes by
various photographers.



Etudes de Nus par Andre Steiner. Paris: Editions Tiranty, circa 1952.
All photographs by Andre Steiner.



NUS. Ondines. Photographies par Serge Jacques. Paris: Editions 
Mistral, circa 1950. Sixteen plates loose in the wrapper, ready to be framed.



Le Nu International. Paris, 1954. Preface by Pierre Mac Orlan. Edited by Otto Steinert, the force behind the then emerging "subjective fotografie" movement in Germany. This is the French edition of Akt Internationale published one year earlier. Exceptional collection of avant-garde, experimental and conventional nudes, printed in fine gravure including Berko, Brassai, Fukuda, Hajek-Halke, Henle, Landau, List, Masclet (in homage as recognition for his classic NUS published 20 years prior?), Schall, Strache, Edward Weston and others.
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