CAMERA Magazine Switzerland 1970s C.J.Bucher

CAMERA Magazine, published in Luzerne, Switzerland, represented for many years the highest quality gravure reproductions of photographs in any magazine. The golden age for this marvelous publication was from the 1960s to the early 1970s. The publisher, C.J.Bucher Company, spared no expense in producing the magazine, up until 1973 when the company was sold. Here, in no particular arrangement, are covers for the magazine from the early to mid-1970s. Coverage included giants of the field as well and emerging artists from around the world. Photos of covers from an extensive collection acquired in the 1990s. Click here for details about Camera.

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Yva Richard Paris 1920s/30s: Genesis of Fetish Fashion

 

Yva Richard Paris 1920s/30s: Genesis of Fetish Fashion

The Yva Richard company in Paris is most well known for their creation of excellent and obsessive "fetish" photographs from the early 1920s to the early 1930s. Much has been written and posted on the web about the married couple working behind and in front of the camera to create these marvelous photographs. Unfortunately most of what is posted is inaccurate, misrepresented and in one instance, almost completely wrong. 

Why they did not read Alexandre Dupouy's excellent book YVA RICHARD L'Age d'Or du Fetichisme (Editions Astarte: Paris, 1994) above, is in some ways typical of the web mentality. Information is "reposted" without consideration of historical fact or accuracy. However, I digress. My mission is not to criticize what I see around me in the virtual world, but to share imagery from my archives for your pleasure.

Alexandre Dupouy's book came to life after his frustrating attempts to get the Yva Richard book published in time for the 1994 Mois de la Photo in Paris. Realizing that the book was not going to be published in time for the exhibition planned at his gallery, he took matters into his own hands and by default, started Editions Astarte. Alexandre and his wife, Jocelyne, are the editors and publishers of Editions Astarte, to date with about 35 books in-print, including my 2009 book, BEAUTES TINTEES (Tinted Beauties) which I will dedicate a separate post to in the near future.

Nativa circa 1927 

Archetypal fetish mistress: long leather gloves, black lace, leather corset, stockings and high heels 

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The groundwork for the Yva Richard photo studio began in the early 1920s. At the time the company was creating lingerie for the boudoir as well as what they referred to as "lingerie travesti" (costume lingerie). Soon, looking to achieve the quality of photographic imagery they wanted for catalogs and ads, they created and operated their own photographic studio. Mr. Richard moved behind the camera and his voluptuous, seemingly "naturally" exhibitionistic wife, Nativa, became the model. 

By the late 1920s the lingerie company had collapsed and in it is place Yva (Nat-iva = Yva) Richard became solely a photo studio creating and selling exceptional, high quality photographs of Nativa in seductive lingerie. They progressed quickly, from lingerie "costumes" to lingerie transformed into fetishized attire. The outfits consisted of thigh high leather boots, very long leather gloves, lace bras and panties; plus satin corsets, garter belts, silk stockings and patent leather high heels. In the 1940s, John Willie's Bizarre magazine, referred to these combinations as "fantasy fashion". Nudity was rarely seen in their photographs, except in small, teasing peeks (see the last two photographs).

The photographs were created in two sizes for distinct purposes. The first were 5" x 7" and used as catalog photographs (fashion photographs) to sell lingerie, clothing and accessories. Some of the catalogs published the original photographs in groups of four as illustrations inside a printed paper wrapper. Later, when Yva Richard was selling only photographs they concentrated on the postcard format, 3.5" x 5.5", photographic images (fetish photographs). With hindsight, it is plain to see that Monsieur Richard was obsessed with legs, stockings, high heel shoes and rear views of Nativa.

The Yva Richard name remained listed as a business in the Paris directories until 1943, however for this amazing couple, the "golden age of fetishism" ended in 1935, coinciding with increasing censorship and the advancement of the political change. At that point their efforts as a photographic studio ceased to exit. 

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The first three images are the large 5" x 7"  format and published in catalogs as original photographs. These images have the distinctive "YR Paris" logo rubber-stamped on the back. Note that in these three photographs the figure is complete, showing off the clothing, as you would expect in conventional "fashion" photographs. The model in all the photographs illustrated in this post is Nativa.

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A quintessentially '20s French flapper ready for what ever the 
night has in store. "Feu, s.v.p.!"

Flashing her legs and lingerie while catching a bit of heat atop

a warming radiator. 

Nativa, not quite ready for the winter weather in her fur coat, 

gloves and cloche hat.

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This second group are postcard format, 3.5" x 5.5", photographs. Here the emphasis moves from selling fashion to selling fetish, the photographs concentrating on the lingerie, legs, shoes and derriere of Nativa. Can you imagine Nativa's figure and form being accepted as "fashionable" in today's world? Only as a "plus-size" model. Note the "Y.R." logo + file number dropped out in the lower corner in all but one of the images.

Excellent view of Nativa's round, open and inviting face.

Large, can-can style petticoats; striped, opera length, leather gloves.

Elaborate lace ~ two piece ensemble. 

From a series of Nativa's legs and high button boots.

Attention! 

Boots and legs from the back.

Lace trimmed satin panties on fur draped posing table!

For some, the piece de resistance, showing a part of

each of the "essentials".

"Mary Pickford" wig and frou-frou chemise just a bit 

hung up on the way down.

Nativa giving a visual cue in her extremely tight corset,

wide garters and silk stockings.

eBay store link at top of page

Yva Richard photographs are in our eBay store listed For Sale!

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German Style & Fashion: Turn-of-the Century

In Germany at the start of the 20th century there was an explosion of creativity seen in all aspects of life. The fine arts, architecture, furniture design and fashion were all moving towards an exciting new look. This artistic movement, called art nouveau in France and Jugendstil in Germany (the name taken from one of the most influential lifestyle magazines of the era, Die Jugend), was a creative movement of modernity, finding inspiration from natures designs and the living world.\\

My interest in all things antiquarian, as always, leads to material related to my areas of speciality. Today's post illustrates two publications from Germany that show the influence of Jugendstil on art, illustration and book publishing.

DAS ALBUM. Published in Germany, circa 1902. A large format, bound volume of 12 issues with decorative binding. Das Album, similar in content to L'Album, published in Paris at the same time, was filled with beautiful illustrations in each issue, many full-page and in color. 

As was common at this time for publications appealing to a large audience (the turn-of-the-century is the birth of "pop-culture" magazines) Das Album focused its cutting edge style reflected in the growing interest of popular entertainments. Typical subject matter included the cabaret scene, music-hall shows, cafe concerts, "street festivals", the "karnival" (costume parties) and amusement parks. It appears that none of these activities would be complete without displays of women drinking and smoking and otherwise dressed seductively in public.

At first glance much of what we see from the worlds of German and French nightlife (read that as Berlin and Paris) seems quite marvelous with up swept hair-dos, large hats and elegant dresses and thanks to the can-can, hundreds of kicking legs in frou-frou lingerie. The high life! However much depicted at the time put a glossy veneer on activities that were marginally acceptable such as prostitution and the men who supported them. Looking closely at many of these illustrations are subtle depictions of prostitutes, usually attended by much older, distinguished looking gents. Wealthy mustachioed fellows, rarely without a bottle of champagne-on-ice at hand.

All that being said, this was an exceptional period, making art and illustration available to the average person via periodicals like Das Album and to a more affluent clientele via the Reznicek album which follows.

Title page, illustration by J.Wely

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Cover illustration by Widhopff

Unsigned cover illustration

Unsigned cover illustration

Full-page illustration by Gerbault

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UNTER VIER AUGEN (Private Eyes). F. von Reznicek Album. Published in Munich: Albert Langen Verlag, 1908. Large format hardcover, beautifully printed in full-color. All illustrations full-page.

Reznicek's illustrations in some ways epitomize the "high" and "low" of German society at the turn-of-the-century. On the one hand are the incredibly elegant women and men in gowns and formal clothes and on the other the archetypal images of older men with seductive younger women in their bed chambers. There is no doubt that within these beautifully mannered scenes of women undressing from copious layers of undergarments and corsets, that these are working girls, prostitutes, preparing to engage their clients.

Stamped, partially embossed, hardcover binding printed in color

Title page

The next five scans are full-page illustrations from Unter vier Augen

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Click link at top of the page for eBay store

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@vasta_archives